Kilnsey 2012

Kilnsey 17th-22nd August 2012

This year’s stay in the village of Kilnsey came with a firm goal for me, to top out an 8a. I had tried to do this the previous year but a lack of strength - that I would like to think I have improved on now - and the fact that I injured myself mid-way through the trip, stopped me from doing so. I had intended to return to "The Thumb" an 8a on the north buttress as this was the climb that I hurt my back on, a really stupid injury because it was my fault for bailing and making the swing into the wall really hard, I wanted to get back on it to prevent myself from becoming scared to climb on it because of my history with it. But a recommendation from Tom Bonnert and an intriguing looking line drew me to another 8a climb next to “The Thumb”, “Dead Calm”.

Before that, on the first day I had another score to settle with a 7b+ called “50 for 5”. I had only had one redpoint attempt at this last year and I needed to get it finished, I pulled on for my first attempt, also having to put the clips in. I remembered a lot of the sequences from the year before and quite quickly I was moving into the harder top section, after having to quickly rethink a bit of beta on one move because I committed to what I thought was a bomber hold and was in fact an overly chalked bit of smooth rock.  I quickly swapped hands and reached up to a positive pocket, a quick sigh of relief before a quick traverse so I could stick a heel hook in for a small rest for the last crux section. I pulled up into the two pinches and looked up towards the finishing hold, I could see a tick mark and lunged towards it, I hit the jug completely wrong and I fell.  Frustrated that I had fallen off when I had felt so good I pulled back on and this time I topped it out. 

A quick rest between climbs whilst watching Tom on "The Bulge"



Next I intended to go on a 7c called “Dominatrix”, one of the classic routes on the crag, but it was seeping from a lower section so instead I headed over to another classic, the 7c+ “The Ashes”.  I first belayed Sarah on it but she couldn’t do the top section so I would have to put in the remaining quick draws. I raced up the first section with relative ease and then came into a harder section around halfway up which I fought through and then dropped a move going into the biggest hold on the route which would have been a full recovery. I pulled back on and did that move, but now I had to put the draws in on the crux of the climb.  About ten minutes later after falling off multiple times, I decided I would have to skip the clip that I had repetitively failed to clip.  I pulled on through the moves and lunged out right to this quite poor side pull, then I got a crimp for my right and slapped up into the better part of the side pull then it was a big move for me into this slopey hold by the next clip, I threw up for it and missed the good part and took a huge fall.  A bit shaken I tried once more but I couldn’t do it. I clip-sticked up to the top and began to thread the rope.  Unfortunately this in itself was a big challenge because after the amount of falls I had taken the figure of eight was almost impossible to undo. It took me almost twenty minutes to undo the knot by which time I was not very popular with everyone else, because it was the end of the day and they all wanted to go back to the house to get some food.

That evening we headed over to a river that we were told was good to swim in, and I suppose they were right if you wanted a swimming treadmill.  The current was so strong it was almost impossible to swim up stream and you just didn’t move.  On top of that it was freezing cold.  But we decided that it would be perfect to set a slackline over and after scouting around a bit and almost getting swept through some rapids, we all agreed we should return to set up a slack line.

Orrin on WYSIWYG with me, Tom and Aiden
preparing for our attempts on Dead Calm



Day 2 was devoted entirely to working “Dead Calm”. Tom wanted to finish it as he had tried it the week before and also Ian Dunn turned up with Aiden to try it as well.  We all went through the beta a bit then Tom pulled on and had a heart breaker, dropping the last move.  Next it was my turn and I wasn’t expecting too much as it was my flash attempt.  With Ian below being a fantastic beta man I successfully got through the first crux of the climb on a 7b WYSIWYG.  After this there is a good rest in a groove and then some not too hard climbing up to two jugs just below the looming crux section right at the top.  After resting I pulled into the last section slightly blind which is not a good idea. I reached out right into this sharp gassed on crimp and then I reached into a strange hold which has three different bits to it.  This is what got me pumped trying to work out the best part of this undercut hold.  Finally I made a decision but by this time I was too pumped to grip the next hold and unsurprisingly I dropped it. Despite this I was happy with my performance and I had just flashed the 7b at the start.  Soon after this Tom managed to top out which got me really psyched. I pulled on again and soon I found myself in the same place as before. This time though I knew what I was doing. I hit the side pull just right, then out right to this cigar like hold, then again to this crimp with a good thumb latch and I stood up into the next undercut.  I realised now that I was actually getting very pumped and slapped desperately up over the lip into a little crimp, to my surprise I held it, but not for long as I barely even had enough left to take my other hand off. I fell but I was not angry because this had given me the knowledge that I needed to improve how I rested.  For my next attempt we decided that, like Tom, I needed to rest much longer in the groove lower down and have just a short shake at the jugs below the crux because it wasn’t giving me very much.  My next go I hit the crimp like before but I felt much better and I was able to do the next move out to this sloper way out to the left.  From this you have to do a long blind move to a crimp side pull, then get your feet really high for a big rock over and an optional knee bar. From that you have to cross into a huge undercutting flake and grab it as you fall away from the wall. Sadly I missed the side pull and fell again.  After this I decided I would leave it and come back fresh the next day.

I did just that, and I found myself again at the big move right to the crimp side pull, but for some reason unknown to me I decided to completely confuse the beta and I tried to put my feet high for the rock over on the move below, as I hung there bewildered by why it suddenly seemed so hard I fell off because I was so pumped and still confused, tried to do the same thing again, and couldn’t do it. Eventually I realised what I was doing and I was furious with myself for making such a stupid error when I had felt so solid.  Thankfully, my next go everything went right and I found myself grabbing the finishing flake. It was a good feeling to top it out especially when it had all come together all the moves had flowed so easily and I was barely pumped when I reached the top.  With the relief that I had completed my goal for the trip I could relax and do a bit easier climbing and try and get a bit of mileage in to get a feel for the crag. Over the next few days I did some 7b's called “Smooth Torquer”, “Sticky Wicket”, “Nerve Ending” and “Ground effect”.  I also tried to do “Comedy” but there are three moves on it which are huge for me and although I could do them all it was so "hit and miss" that I gave up. I wanted to get on “Dominatrix” but it remained wet the whole time. 



Tom - the hero of the trip!



On the Monday we returned to the river armed with a slackline and a lot of determination.  To our horror the rain we’d had swollen the river to make it deeper and even faster flowing!  Despite it being probably slightly stupid, we went ahead anyway and quickly we were across the river to attach the slackline but the real challenge was returning the other way whilst trying to keep it relatively dry.  We headed off and me and Orrin seemed to be doing alright, until we hit the strong flow in the middle and it took us instantly. It was the moment when our concerns went from keeping the slackline dry to just desperately hanging on.  As we hung on for our lives, everyone on the bank got increasingly concerned for us as they rolled around in fits of laughter.  Eventually Gracie stopped laughing long enough to try to help us but all it did was mean that there were now three people desperately hanging on to the slackline.  Finally we pulled ourselves into calmer water to re- assess the situation.  We decided to go up river a bit and then use the current to bring ourselves along rather than try to fight against it. So this time Tom set off and we thought it was going to work before the slackline went tight and sadly it was too short.  By this point we were all shivering terribly and all we wanted to do was get back to the bank, we left the slackline.  We shivered for about ten minutes before we knew someone would have to go back in to retrieve the slackline. Tom stepped up to the mark and got it back.  He was the hero of the trip.



Gracie on Pantomime 7b+



On the last day, me and Orrin attempted “Metal Guru”, but although Orrin onsighted the crux lower section he didn’t have enough left to top it and I was shut down by the powerful moves so there was no glory there.  Apart from this Tom had a disaster on his second project, “The Bulge” after working it so that he was redpointing to the last move almost every time.  Unfortunately on the last day the rain caught up with and the seepage prevented him from climbing it, to add insult to injury when he dogged up it to retrieve the clips he actually found new beta for the move that made it quite easy for him. "Next Time", he said sadly.  The final project of the trip was Gracie on “Pantomime”.  She had worked it all week and on the last day it all seemed to be coming together.  She got passed her high point and then dropped the last move.  Frustrated she got on again and did the move but then fell off on the very last bit of climbing on a move that we had taken for granted was quite steady, clearly wrong because Gracie had a lot of trouble with it. Despite some people having disappointment on their projects on the last day, on the whole it was a really good trip for me and everyone.



My ticks:

Smooth Torquer – 7b
Sticky Wicket – 7b
Nerve Ending – 7b
Ground Effect – 7b
WYSIWYG – 7b
50 for 5 – 7b+

Dead Calm – 8a

 



A big thanks to Naomi for organising me and the trip and feeding us and a thank you to Naomi and Flo's grandparents for letting us stay in the "Bothy".